With a Dog in the Harz: Hike from Jagdhof Carlshaus to the Brocken

A Day in an Enchanting Harz Landscape

Arriving at Jagdhof Carlshaus

When we come to Jagdhof Carlshaus with friends for the holidays, a wonderfully familiar ritual unfolds: as soon as the car doors open after the long journey, the children storm the three little Swedish houses and claim the beds in their favourite one – in the Dollhouse, in the Hexenhaus (the Witch's Cottage) or in the Carlshaus itself. There's no time for unpacking bags and boxes, of course – that's what the grown-ups are for. For me, that is actually the moment the holidays begin: into the Carlshaus, throw open the shutters, fill the fridge, put flowers on the table. And then we are back – in our family retreat in the middle of our beloved forest.

We put a lot of heart and soul into renovating the Carlshaus – in GDR times it was a youth hostel – because to us it is far more than just a holiday home: it is a place where you feel your roots and where, together with our children, we keep creating new memories of an old home. The Carlshaus lies in a private forest estate that we manage with great care and in a way that is close to nature – right on the border of the Harz National Park, which begins just behind our trees.

This arriving, this coming to rest in the middle of nature – that is exactly what we wish for our guests at Jagdhof Carlshaus, too. That feeling when you sit by the fire in the evening and watch the mountains rise dark against the sky in the evening light: that is exactly the moment when you remember the legends, and perhaps retell the witch stories and fairy tales that surround the Brocken and its mysterious landscape. When the little owl calls, you can hardly help suspecting that it is spreading its wings precisely to follow its witch-mummy to the Brocken.

Two Routes to the Brocken

The Brocken, of course! The highlight of the Harz – within walking distance of Jagdhof Carlshaus – is only a short hike away. Naturally, you have to go there. Again and again, in fact, and with different company, because the tour is new and beautiful every time! Here you can experience everything that makes the Harz what it is: ancient, massive granite rocks with fantastic views, a wildly romantic gorge with natural bathing spots, dense, quiet forests full of small natural wonders – the famous steam locomotive of the Brocken Railway and, of course, the legendary summit itself with its magnificent panorama. Even the open areas on the mountain slopes, where the originally dominant spruce plantations have almost completely fallen victim to the bark beetle, have plenty to see. Many people are wistful at first at the sight of the dead tree skeletons. But the once-dark forest has become wider and lighter in these places, entirely new sight lines have opened up, and natural regeneration is already showing everywhere – young greenery, fields of flowers, light-green saplings reclaiming their place.

Two routes lead from Jagdhof Carlshaus to the summit, and if you spend enough time at Jagdhof Carlshaus and your wanderlust is big enough, you can explore both. One tour offers the option of a detour to the waterfalls and bathing spots of the Steinerne Renne – perfect if you want to take it easy and have a long break along the way. I describe this one in detail below. The other route leads through the Hochharz bird sanctuary, past the Große Zeterklippen and the Ferdinandsstein: wilder, quieter, with even more rock formations along the way, but with no place to swim. But it hardly matters which you choose – no tour to the Brocken is ever the same twice.

Walking Time and Return Route at a Glance

For the pure walking time, allow a good 2.5 hours for the ascent – though, depending on your pace, with a rest at the Steinerne Renne, time at the summit, and photo, climbing and picnic stops, this can easily turn into half a day. The way back is comfortable – by Brocken Railway to Drei Annen Hohne and from there only about 40 to 45 minutes on foot to Jagdhof Carlshaus. The ride on the historic steam locomotive along the narrow tracks through the dense forests is a highlight in its own right for many visitors to the region and somehow belongs to a proper Harz experience.

Hiking to the Brocken with a Dog: Tips and Leash Rules

An extra tip for everyone travelling with a four-legged friend: of course, this hike is a pleasure with and for dogs, too. The shady forest paths, the bathing spots at the Steinerne Renne and the many smells and impressions of the forest delight not only us humans. Just keep in mind that a leash is required throughout the Harz when hiking in nature: lynx, red deer and numerous ground-nesting birds live here and need special protection. Even the sweetest dog, from experience, cannot resist playing catch with a fluttering, screeching bird it has met while sniffing around. But a leash does nothing to spoil the joy of the shared experience.

The Start: Through Our Own Forest, Past the Ottofelsen

The tour begins gently – literally at the front door. The Carlshaus, which gave the Jagdhof its name, was moved with great effort from its original location to exactly this spot sometime in the 19th century – and not for nothing. Here, in one of the most beautiful places in the princely forest, far from everything and with a view of the Ottofelsen and the Brocken, Prince Otto of the time wanted to build a shelter for hikers, his hunting friends and himself. And because people already thought sustainably back then, he reused the finest oak beams from a much older log cabin from another part of his estate.

From here, after an espresso and freshly baked rolls for breakfast, you set off into the glorious landscape – at first slightly downhill, while new crags keep appearing (Klippen in German – the spectacular rock formations that make the Harz so special). The Ottofelsen is just one of the most prominent examples – a 36-metre-high, coarse-grained granite rock that can be climbed to its highest point via iron ladders and stairs, as it has been since 1892. And even though a hike to the Brocken is actually on the agenda, you shouldn't miss the spectacular view across the whole Harz to the Brocken and Wernigerode Castle, so do climb the stairs all the way up. If not right at the start of the tour, save it for the next day – from Jagdhof Carlshaus it's only a few minutes to the Ottofelsen.

Woolsack Weathering: Why the Granite Rocks Are So Round

What many people don't know: the Ottofelsen is just one of many such granite rocks, or crags, that rise from the forest floor here – massive, rounded blocks piled on top of one another, forming grotesque shapes. Geologists call this phenomenon woolsack weathering: many millions of years ago the granite formed deep beneath the earth's surface, and over long periods water and frost wore away the surrounding softer rock and soil and rounded the once-angular blocks along fine fissures – until exactly these characteristic, bulging shapes were left behind, giving the Harz its primeval rocky landscape today. No wonder stories have always grown up around them: some see petrified giants in them, who once wandered across the Harz and came to rest here. Our children see less the giants themselves and more the droppings of the giants' sheep. But beautiful, fascinating and wonderful for climbing they are in any case. This mixture of earth history, nature and centuries-old legends makes the way to the Brocken more than just a hike for us – whatever your interests, there is always something new to discover.

Through the Holtemme Valley

From the Ottofelsen you continue over a gentle ridge past the “Gebohrter Stein” towards the Holtemme, a wildly romantic mountain stream. The Gebohrter Stein is another granite rock formation and is designated a natural monument. Its unusual name comes from the shape of the granite blocks: they form a gap you can see straight through. But beware: climbing fans may end their Brocken tour right here, because the rock is officially designated as a climbing rock by the German Alpine Club.

The path continues towards Forsthaus Hannekenbruch – a typical example of the region's half-timbered architecture. Here, too, the temptation is great to postpone the ascent of the Brocken to another day and simply take the path to the Steinerne Renne instead.

Steinerne Renne: Waterfalls, Pools and a Natural Swimming Spot in the Forest

This beautiful and, in places, somewhat steep but very natural path leads down through an enchanted gorge, where the Holtemme river has carved its bed, and then back up along the water. The water rushes over smoothly polished rocks, moss and ferns glisten in the damp air, and time and again the river forms small waterfalls and pools in which you can even swim wonderfully in warm weather. For children there is hardly anything better on a hiking day than this natural outdoor pool in the middle of the forest, and to be honest it's not much different for us adults. Who doesn't find it romantic to bathe under a waterfall among elves and fairies? The so-called Steinerne Renne is one of the most scenic sections. Here the terrain climbs steeply and the water rushes wildly down into the valley over broad, washed-out granite rocks. Right at the waterfall stands the Berghotel Steinerne Renne – also an exceptionally pretty half-timbered building from the turn of the century. Do I need to say that this spot, with its view of the waterfall, is perfect for a hearty bite to eat?

The Renneklippen and the Way to the Summit

For those who don't let themselves be distracted from their path to the Brocken, the route continues from Forsthaus Hannekenbruch on a Brocken ascent that has been in use since the 18th century. Important to know: here you are already in the national park, which means you should on no account hike cross-country. A strict rule to stay on marked paths applies in order to protect flora and fauna. So beware of older maps or GPS tracks, because only paths designated by the national park are open. These lead first through dense forest and uphill on well-built forest routes. After the first sweaty metres of ascent the forest opens up briefly, and the Renneklippen offer another impressive panoramic view back to Wernigerode and the gently rolling Harz foothills – also very suitable, even during a digital detox, for a selfie or a photo for the family chat.

Höllenstieg and Zeterklippen

Then comes the legendary Höllenstieg – so named because it probably gets quite hot for one or two hikers while overcoming the approx. 200 metres of elevation of this rather challenging section. From here the path leads onto a broader forest road, the Molkenhaus-Chaussee, and at the “Molkenhausstern” crossing the path branches off again, narrower and wilder and past another impressive group of striking granite rocks, the Zeterklippen. Anyone still got too much energy? From the Große Zeterklippe – the iron ladder is approx. 15 metres long – you have a great view across the Harz slopes to the Brocken summit. The path continues towards the “Brockenbett” and approaches the Brockenstraße. Dense forest alternates with open, wind-swept areas, and you can feel the vegetation slowly changing the higher you climb.

The Last Kilometres to the Summit Plateau

From about four kilometres before the summit you share the path with many other hikers – a sign of how popular the Brocken is as a destination. Shortly before you reach the summit, the path crosses the tracks of the historic Brocken Railway – a special moment, especially for children, who often wait here for one of the steam locomotives. From here it is only about a thousand metres to the treeless, wind-swept summit plateau. The landscape changes dramatically: trees recede, the wind becomes noticeably stronger, and the barren granite rocks for which the Brocken is famous emerge. In fog – which is no rarity here – a mystical atmosphere arises that immediately makes clear why this place has been associated with sagas and legends for centuries.

The Brocken: Legendary Summit

Hardly any mountain in Germany is as closely interwoven with mythology as the Brocken. The summit, also known as the Blocksberg, has for centuries been considered the setting of Walpurgis Night, when, according to legend, witches gather for their dance. Writers such as Goethe, who immortalised the Brocken in his “Faust”, and Heine, who set it a literary monument in his “Harzreise” (Harz Journey), have further shaped the mysterious aura of this place.

However, anyone reaching the summit today will not necessarily find a romantic, solitary mountain peak. On fine days especially, it can get quite crowded here. In addition, the historic, legend-steeped image of the summit is shaped by the modern buildings on the crest of the Brocken. The striking Brocken tower and the other technical installations in particular form a marked contrast to the original landscape. Even so, the view across the Harz remains impressive in clear weather. In the Brockenhaus you can learn more about the unique geology, flora and fauna of the national park before starting the way back.

Return Trip: Relaxed on the Brocken Railway

Instead of walking the whole way back again, there is still the Brocken Railway – the historic narrow-gauge railway that connects the summit with Wernigerode and other stations. The ride through dense forests, past rugged rock formations, behind one of the steam locomotives, is an experience in itself and often one of the highlights of the whole day for the children. That keeps the effort manageable, even for smaller legs.

The station closest to Jagdhof Carlshaus is Drei Annen Hohne. From there it is only about 40 to 45 minutes to the holiday home. The well-built forest track is a pleasant and relaxed last stage after the strenuous climb. The route runs mostly through the forest and offers another chance to enjoy nature in peace before you flop onto one of the cosy beds at the Jagdhof or enjoy a soak in the freestanding bathtub.

All in all, you should plan a good half to a whole day for the ascent, the time at the summit and the return on the Brocken Railway, including plenty of breaks. Anyone who takes the tour deliberately slowly discovers much more than someone focused only on the summit – and that is exactly what makes this hike a real experience for the whole family.

Frequently Asked Questions: Hiking to the Brocken with a Dog

Does my dog have to be on a leash when hiking to the Brocken?

Yes. A leash is required throughout the Harz when hiking in nature. Lynx, red deer and numerous ground-nesting birds live here and need special protection.

Can I swim with my dog at the Steinerne Renne?

The bathing spots at the Steinerne Renne delight not only people but dogs as well: in warm weather the pools of the Holtemme form natural swimming spots. The leash requirement applies here, too.

How long does the hike from Jagdhof Carlshaus to the Brocken take?

Allow a good 2.5 hours of pure walking time for the ascent. With a rest at the Steinerne Renne, time at the summit and photo, climbing and picnic stops, this easily becomes half a day to a whole day, including the return on the Brocken Railway.

How do I get back from the Brocken to Jagdhof Carlshaus?

Comfortably by the historic Brocken Railway to Drei Annen Hohne. From there it is still about 40 to 45 minutes on foot along a well-built forest track to Jagdhof Carlshaus.

May I hike cross-country in the Harz National Park?

No. A strict rule to stay on marked paths applies in the national park in order to protect flora and fauna. Only paths designated by the national park are open. Beware of older maps or GPS tracks.

Which routes lead from Jagdhof Carlshaus to the Brocken?

There are two routes: one offers a detour to the waterfalls and bathing spots of the Steinerne Renne. The other leads through the Hochharz bird sanctuary, past the Große Zeterklippen and the Ferdinandsstein. It is wilder and quieter, with even more rock formations, but has no place to swim.